Day 5: Hindmarsh Island & Coorong Cruise

Last day: This was a rest day for most, but my last day on the Tour.  I got Nellie rolling after breakfast and headed off to the bridge to Hindmarsh Island. 

From the top of the Hindmarsh Island bridge

This controversial bridge has allowed the crass 'developments' that those that fought against the bridge, predicted.  A fancy marina with boring suburban houses for the wealthy!  Another quiet natural environment invaded.  Thankfully they are contained - at the moment - on one end of the island and there is some protected areas on the rest of the island.

good old SA Stobie poles

After giving myself a total scare when my camera 'jumped' off the gorilla-pod and slid to within 50cm of the end of the bridge, I shakily rode on to the lookout overlooking the mouth of the Murray.  As most people are, I was amazed to see how small the mouth of the mighty Murray River is.  And due to the wind coming off the land, the breakers of the Southern Ocean were tamed a bit. 

The Mouth of the mighty Murray River

A black crusty-looking Shingle-back lizard asked me for something to eat, so I offered the core of my juicy pear, which was gratefully received.

Stumpy lizard, finishing off my pear

After returning to campsite and having a quick shower, I walked down to the Wharf to catch the 'Spirit of the Coorong' cruise.  Jock, captain of the Coorong, was at the helm and we chugged around to the barrage with the lock that allows boats to pass through.  

Fresh water entering the Coorong

A couple of the gates were still open, fresh water pouring into Coorong.  As we approached

the barrage, we could see big fat seals lolling around on the timber supports and in the water.  These are New Zealand Fur Seals - not sure how they got there or if they are naturally the seals in that area.  They are such circus animals and so entertaining.

NZ fur seals making themselves at home

 I think we could have happily spent more time, just watching their antics.  But the captain drove the boat onwards and right out into the mouth of the Murray, until it started to get a bit rough.  It is quite a treacherous meeting of river and sea and only occasionally are boats taken through this opening.  (so why does one need a marina inside this only access to the open sea??)

where the ocean meets the Murray River

We then chugged off down into the Coorong, past flocks of pelicans, black swans, cormorants and a variety of smaller water birds, too far away to be identified.  Terns and gulls flew around the boat and off again.

Pelican covered sand spit

We chugged past a small fishing village - their land tenure is now limited to the owner's life - the huts are to be removed from the conservation area once the owner dies.  The dark green huts looked like the sort of house I would love to live in - much more interesting than the plastered brick monstrosities of the marina.  my seat companion agreed!

Fishing village along the Coorong

We stopped at a landing (and tried not to disturb a couple of nesting Pied Oyster-catchers) and the deckie led us along a boardwalk over the sand dunes to the Great Southern Ocean coast.  It was quite a hot walk and on reaching the sea we took our shoes off and went for a wade in the water!  It was SO cold, I scuttled back out of reach of the waves in fear of frostbite, but others were more daring!

walking along the boardwalk over the sand dunes

paddling in the very cold ocean

And so back to the boat and back to the wharf.  a really peaceful and informative cruise enjoyed by most. 

And so ends my first experience of an organised bike tour.  I think I prefer to do my own organising for touring, though there was nothing wrong with this one.  It was nice not having to lug around loaded panniers and not having to look for accommodation, but so far in my trips that has never been a major issue.  I did feel a bit pressured to make sure I got to the next stage on time - never a real issue, but it was there.  The food was as good as expected, tho a bit low on protein for vegos.  There was plenty of it, plus real coffee in the morning and fresh fruit.  I learnt quickly not to be in the first mob setting out, so that I could ride along at my own, stopping to take photos when I wanted and not getting in the others way. This also meant that arriving back to the camp on my own, usually meant no queuing for the toilets and showers.
And I learnt how to 'snot'!!  Punching into a cold head wind soon had my nose running so I decided to give the disgusting habit of the lycra crowd a go, to clear my nose whilst riding!  Bingo - it works!  especially in a strong head wind!  And preferably when no-one else is around!  So now I feel almost ready to sign up for the Tour de France - almost :)
I will keep my eye on the program for future tours, but will be directed by 'where' rather than just going on the tour.  Guess I am not that much of a social person!

and so ends my BikeSA Annual tour experience, 2011

The Coorong's signature - Pelicans!